The Apollo, Fratelli Paradiso, now Longrain – Japan has become hot property for Australian restaurants, writes Neha Kale.
Sam Christie remembers the first time he was struck by the density of the Tokyo food scene. The restaurateur and co-founder of Longrain was at the Tsukiji Fish Market when the scope of Japan’s culinary culture really hit him.
“I couldn’t get over the amount of seafood, the hundreds of species of fish – there’s nothing like eating raw prawns for breakfast,” he says. “Just walking down the street is mind-boggling.”
Tokyo, where Michelin-starred ramen is ordered via vending machine and nondescript buildings house floor upon floor of ultra-niche eateries, is perhaps the world’s greatest food city. But given its hundreds of thousands of restaurants, the language barrier and its famously impenetrable web of customs, it can be daunting for foreign restaurateurs.
Not that it’s stopping Christie. Next month he opens an outpost of Longrain on the 39th floor of the Yebisu Garden Place Tower in Ebisu (an upscale neighbourhood known for its tachinomiya standing bars) in partnership with Transit, the Japanese hospitality group that brought Bill Granger’s Bills to Omotesando in 2008.
この記事は Gourmet Traveller の July 2017 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は Gourmet Traveller の July 2017 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
From personal experience
Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.
Kimberley Moulton
Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.
Tom Wallace
We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.
Best in class
The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)
A taste of refuge
Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.
BE OUR GUEST
Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation
Barcelona BUZZ
A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.
HEATHCOTE BOUND
MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.
The art of...relishing restaurants
Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner
HEART AND SOUL
Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.