Smooth Crusing

For a really special way to explore Burgundy, a luxury barge cruise through the tranquil countryside is hard to beat, writes

- Karen Tait

The 12 guests and six crew collectively held our breath as Pierre, our skipper, edged the huge barge into the current. Despite his many years’ experience, we all knew this was a tricky manoeuvre. The well-behaved canal we had been trundling along was being traversed by a faster flowing river, which would have been enough of a challenge without the narrow lock awaiting us on the other side. It would be an extremely snug fit, so our boat had to enter it perfectly straight, but the current had other ideas about that...

Minutes later we all expelled a huge sigh of relief. With inches to spare, we had cruised into the lock without a single bump. In fact, smooth was the word that summed up the whole week, from the impeccable navigation to the seamless service from our friendly crew. It was as if they could read our minds. No sooner had you thought ‘I fancy a cup of tea’ than one appeared. Sometimes it even felt as if they were a miniscule step ahead of you, as a gin and tonic, ice clinking and condensation dripping in the intense heat, materialised like a mirage.

Even a large barge like the Luciole can feel a little intimate when there are 18 people on board, especially when you’ve never met them before. But within hours of making acquaintance with our fellow guests in a Paris hotel before our transfer to Burgundy, it was as if we’d been friends for ever. If we’d felt at all reticent about sharing our week with holidaying Americans – we were the only Brits aboard this particular cruise – we shouldn’t have worried. They were all fascinating companions who kept us enthralled with tales of their travel through France, Europe and beyond – and when it came to sense of humour we just seemed to click.