Silhouetted against the blue night sky, the dark form of a helmeted figure on horseback glowered down disdainfully on our puny smartphone lights. After a tense 40 minutes trying to settle a restaurant bill with no cash, shared language, credit card facility or nearby ATM, then an hour haplessly navigating dingy suburban streets — not to mention the five long days of cycling to get here — finally we had found the spot. Only wait, no, we hadn’t. My heart sank as I realized that none of the surroundings matched the description: we were at the wrong statue, in the wrong city.
I was in Germany with my partner Anton, who had gamely agreed to join me on a quest to retrace the footsteps of my late grandfather Richard Wicker. We had reached our journey’s end, the northern port city of Kiel, on a tour that had begun 300 miles south near Hannover, at Fallingbostel — which 75 years ago was the site of the vast, sprawling prisoner-of-war camp Stalag 357.
Richard ended up here in spring 1945, aged 32, having spent four and a half years behind barbed wire as a POW. Until recently, this had been to me a mere second-hand fact, a bullet point of family history. Richard died in 1980, aged 67 — 18 months before I was born. I knew almost nothing about him, and nothing at all about his war experience, until three years ago when out of the blue my mum presented me with a tattered brown envelope containing 34 furled, musty-scented pages of the typed manuscript: “This is it,” she proudly announced, “Dad’s book.”
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TAKE YOUR TIME
Dean Edwardsâ new cookbook features delectable recipes that you can slow cook or stick in the oven. Hereâs a selection of the best
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The rugby legend took the reins at Sussex County Cricket Club in 2017, rekindling his love for a sport that first won his heart on the village cricket fields of North Yorkshire
NAKED AMBITION
In the 1980s, Christine and Jennifer Binnie partied with Boy George and Marilyn and bared all as performance art collective The Neo-Naturists. Now they are working together to gain the recognition they feel they deserve
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