Exploring The Essex Coast & Rivers

Janet Harber, author of the 20th edition of the East Coast Rivers Cruising Companion, provides us with an expert’s guide to the waters of the Essex coast.

- Janet Harber

THE rivers and creeks of Essex, bounded by the River Stour to the north and the River Thames to the south, present endless opportunities for sailing. The coast is linked by the peninsulas of Tendring, Dengie and Foulness, and divided by the estuaries of the Blackwater, Crouch and Thames. Off the coast lies a maze of swatchways and sandbanks, while along its shores are marshy saltings and mudbanks.

For remoteness, peace and wildlife, it would be hard to beat the River Stour or the River Roach. In contrast, navigating the busy shipping lanes of the Harwich approaches or Sea Reach on the Thames can present a challenge for many sailors. Walton Backwaters offers yet another world of winding creeks and mudlarking for those who enjoy following in the wake of Swallows and Amazons.

A family cruise, say, from Harwich to Brightlingsea, along the coast following the channel known as The Wallet – with the Gunfleet offshore windfarm turbines on the seaward horizon – can be quite an adventure. Or it could be just as exciting to spend a day pottering around the Tollesbury Creek saltings in a single-handed sailing dinghy.

Many Essex ports can only be accessed by boat at high tide – once the tide goes out there is usually plenty of mud to be negotiated, but this is part of the unique appeal of sailing the East Coast.

The quiet and spacious River Stour is, strictly speaking, only half in Essex as it forms the border with neighbouring Suffolk. However, its south bank is firmly in Essex, as are the two towns of Mistley and Manningtree at the head of the river. Also on the south shore is Wrabness, a popular destination for cruising yachtsmen in search of a peaceful mooring for the night. From the river hereabouts the roof of Grayson Perry’s A House for Essex can also just be seen in the trees.