Carved With Care

Discover the past and present of carved gemstones as we unearth the forgotten art of glyptography for the bride with an affinity for lost treasures.

- Akshita Naharjain

 

The beauty of carved gemstones has captivated collectors and craftsmen alike since antiquity. The value of the carved stones has been acknowledged through history with the Romans treating it as official insignia, Greeks as supplication to the Gods, and the Mughal kings as personalised inscriptions. The art of carving motifs and patterns on the surface of precious stones, called glyptography, might have lost its rank but crafted into jewellery it serves as a reminder of a rich past.

Today, spotting a carved gemstone is a rare sight as the process involves finding specialised craftsmen who can etch intricate patterns as well as stones that can withstand the cutting process. Yet, designers are making a strong case for the style as a trousseau keepsake with their innovative styles.

In Jaipur—the hub for gemstone cutting and carving — continues to harbour jewellery brands that strive to revive and recreate jewellery traditions of the past. Amongst them is Amrapali that works towards encapsulating the vibrant culture and rich heritage of Rajasthan by creating modern jewellery pieces. “Our jewellery is inspired by antiques and old-world charm, and it is important that we use techniques which relate to it. There is a prominence of carved stones and depictions in Mughal jewellery, which serves as our main inspiration,” says Tarang Arora, creative director and CEO at Amrapali.

“Glyptography being a niche craft is usually passed on through generations and these stone-carvers work with us to create the desired styles,” says Arora about the process. “Carving is a fragile process, with each piece being handcrafted to ensure there is minimal wastage of stone. Carving a piece proportionately with intricate patterns like flowers, vines, or geometric designs is a specialised art.”