The Curious Case Of Time

Avant-garde and nonconformist case shapes saunter by and throw convention to the wind in breaking with watchmaking norms and traditions.

- TAN SIOK HOON

CLOCHE DE CARTIER BY CARTIER

No stranger to unique case designs—think the Tortue, Tank and Baignoire, as well as the Crash and Tank Asymmetrique— Cartier pulls yet another from its archives at the recently concluded Watches and Wonders 2021, based on its predilection for playing with geometry and the idea that less is more.

This time, the spotlight falls on the “cloche” (bell), named as such for its outline from a horizontal perspective that reminds of a counter service bell. Though aligned with the Maison’s watchmaking codes, it deviates from the common in the fact that while it can be read whilst being worn on the wrist—by extending the arm instead of bringing the wrist towards you—it can also be transformed into a “desk clock” by being placed strategically on a surface.

The cloche shape made its debut as a diamond and onyx watch brooch in 1920, followed by a wristwatch in platinum and diamonds in 1921 before the first Cloche de Cartier wristwatch in yellow gold with a leather strap was unveiled in 1922. The classic rendition of the 2021 Cloche de Cartier may be just shy of its 100th anniversary but is unchanged from the original. Even with Cartier’s watchmaking repertoire, the Cloche de Cartier watch still ranks among the rarest aesthetically while reflecting the codes of Cartier through its “rail track” and hour markings, sword-shaped hands and a close cabochon set crown. The case back’s satin finish and polished finish between the lugs or edges are throwbacks to the original version. Available in pink gold, yellow gold and platinum, the Cloche is driven by the 1917 MC Manufacture mechanical movement, a calibre created in 2019.