The last few years have provided few opportunities for peacocking beyond donning a spiffy collar for Zoom. But as we tiptoe toward reengaging with public life, a showbird trend is taking hold in luxury: extravagant volumes of fabric pluming into hemlines, pleats, poofs, ruffles, trains, and gigantic coats that could swaddle a bear.
If you spent the winter (or most of the early ’20s) hibernating in pajamas or sweatpants, you would not be alone in wishing to roar into spring with a flourish. For that, fashion designers are preparing a plethora of options: a powerful puffer by Marc Jacobs, a billowing ball gown by Jason Wu, a sweeping train from Fendi, mile-wide ruffles at Balenciaga. Hemlines pool around models’ feet and trail behind them.
Even for his fall collection, Joseph Altuzarra showed tightly pleated wool skirts inspired by a kilt he had recently bought on a trip to Scotland. But his versions extended to the ankles and swirled. The designer confided that he used at least three times as much yardage as in a typical collection in the past.
“I’ve been approaching the idea of risk post-pandemic,” Altuzarra told me backstage in February, jouncing his toddler daughter, Emma, on his hip. “I just feel like I should be doing the most extreme thing I can.” Extreme size extended to his muse: The collection was inspired by the original absolute unit, Moby Dick. (Altuzarra gave front row guests copies of the Penguin Classics edition.)
この記事は Town & Country の April 2022 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は Town & Country の April 2022 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Come On A My Palazzo - Marcantonio Brandolini grew up within these historic walls, skateboarding through his family's 15th-century Gothic home. Now, from ground floor offices that are more Venice Beach than Doge's Palace, he leads an artisanal incubator that may just save the lagoon from oblivion.
A few years ago, when I was writing a novel about reckless young men in Venice, I stumbled upon a photo online that conjured the spirit of my characters. In it, a scruffy-haired twentysomething sits precariously on the edge of a palazzo rooftop, staring out over the city as if he owns the place. Later I discovered that the young man in that photo wasn’t a random backpacker but Marcantonio Brandolini d’Adda, descendant of one of Venice’s most noble and socially well-connected families. The rooftop on which he’s perched is his family’s majestic 15th-century Gothic palazzo on the Grand Canal. By most definitions, the handsome young man in the photo really does own the place.
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Best Friends Forever...and Ever, and Ever, and Ever - From celebs to finance bros, everyone suddenly seems to think an NAD+ drip is the secret to eternal youth. Could they be right?
In the last couple of years there has been a steady drip (ahem) of content—studies, message board buzz, Huberman Lab podcast episodes—feeding the NAD+ frenzy. “Ever since Jennifer Aniston talked about it being the reason she’s never felt better, it’s been an ‘I’ll have what she’s having’ moment,” says one woman who can best be described as Los Angeles royalty. “But the drips take hours. Snore. I can’t decide if it’s worth it.”
The Etiquette of Dissent - What happens if your candidate loses the election? Fortunately, examples of civilized-and productiveways to handle it abound.
The etiquette of living in dissent thereafter, especially if it goes on for a long time, is another matter. In theory, we are supposed to learn how to be good losers as kids. Athletic leagues give out sportsmanship awards, and institutions like the Scouts try to coach their members toward grace in defeat. Both aim to teach us how to live on the outs, perhaps drawing upon the British public school attitude of let’s-all-pull-together-for-the-empire. (The out-of-power party in the UK is even known as “His Majesty’s Most Loyal Opposition.”) In the American ideal, we metaphorically line up and shake hands after the softball game, and then square off again on another day. In practice, what some people do is accuse the other team of cheating and try to get the umpire fired.
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