As a watch enthusiast, you probably vicariously enjoy all sorts of watches; we know that is one of the reasons you read this magazine. As a collector, you narrow the field of timepieces down, first by deciding on a budget, then by matching that number to what watches you like enough to buy. It all sounds logical enough, given that we are trying to cultivate meaningful purchases, to be blunt. If we simply went around buying everything that strikes our fancy, we would leave such a trail of bad debt, bankruptcies and broken marriages that civilisation itself might collapse. Alright, that is a bit much, but you get the idea. It is precisely to avoid these pitfalls, while still managing to indulge in a fun hobby, that collectors decide to concentrate their efforts in specific kinds of watches, and sometimes even right down to the specific brands and creators.
Brands have long recognised this, from the days of Francois Constantin - the orginal business daddy of Vacheron Constantin - and probably even before. Creators and the firms they established invested a great deal of time (no pun intended) and incurred major expenses in courting customers. Once they made inroads into one city or territory, they often focussed their attention on existing customers, and expanded their circles of contacts from there. This only made sense of course, and it probably made everyone feel special. In the era of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jean-Marc Vacheron, the hands and minds behind the creation of the watches meant far more to the aristocrats and royals who bought the watches. Later on, but probably by Breguet's time, the scientific community and governments also sought out works by certain masters, purely for the accuracy of these masters (Ulysse Nardin to use an existing brand name, for example). Whose watches were more reliable and accurate? Well, it helped if a watch bore the mark of its maker.
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Hand-Finished Ceramic
Once thought impossible, Blancpain demonstrates how to bring handcraftsmanship to ceramic cases and bracelets with the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe QuantiÚme Complet Phases de lune 5054
Quanta Of Time
Just as hours, minutes and seconds are quanta of time, so too are days, weeks, months and years. We finally explore the story of the perpetual calendar in particular, in a year that invites such ruminations
Twice Upon A Time
The world's greatest double tourbillon wristwatch, the Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L'horloge is back, with new hand-finishing touches
Coming In Thin
Bvigariâs releases for 2024 continue to stun the watch world with its trail-blazing innovation and sublime artistry
Light The Night
Luminox celebrates 35 years of existence by drawing on its heritage in the realms of the air, land and sea
New Frontiers
The outgoing CEO of TAG Heuer Julien Tornare shares his management style and values. No doubt these will remain consistent in his new role as Hublot CEO, just as they were in his Zenith tenure
Delighting To Surprise
Tissot CEO Sylvain Dolla weighs in on the novelties of 2024
Machine Learning
The mechanical calendar has been perfected over the last 100 years; it remains a challenge that invites multiple watchmaking and engineering approaches. We get into the nuts and bolts of how the perpetual calendar gets the job done
Expedition Hublot
A peek into the manufacture at Hublot reveals the amount of intricacies and technology behind the often quirky watches
STRUCTURAL STYLE
Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni explains the logic of the new Toric collection and takes us through his thoughts on style and elegance