IN THE RAW

Never has the abandoned warehouse look appeared so slick and desirable than at Balenciaga's new London flagship, designed by architecture studio Sub

- DAL CHODHA

A gaping crack reveals itself in the middle of a concrete floor as if caused by some Dionysian commotion. Its presence suggests turmoil, energy, and release. A sense of anticipation clings to the air: what has caused the rupture? Here, on the second level of Balenciaga's new London flagship store, the crack has been deftly carved and then filled in with putty-coloured resin. It is a meticulous, 92cm-long character in a fictional set, typical of the projects by art director Niklas Bildstein Zaar and architect Andrea Faraguna of Berlin studio Sub.

Around 2020, Balenciaga's artistic director Demna (who has recently dropped his surname in a bid to separate his personal and work life) decided to strip the brand's stores back to a new kind of textural experience billed as 'Raw Architecture'. The concept involves fewer virgin materials and thus a lighter environmental footprint. Elements from construction sites, civil engineering projects, and abandoned spaces influenced the renovation of the brand's Sloane Street store, which was unveiled last year. The new flagship, located in the heart of Mayfair, iterates the same aesthetic over three floors. It is an exercise of decor and artifice.

Enter through a thick stainless-steel door and you will find a seemingly abandoned concrete galaxy. Synthetic, biscuity mud is scattered underneath floating concrete shelves that line the large windows. Thick structural beams have the patina of rust. Walls, doors, and floors appear weathered. Faraguna says, 'It looks like we found the perfect location in the middle of the city that was already stripped down, and we've just added some appliances, lights, and new elements. But, of course, that wasn't the case.'