GRECIAN ODYSSEY

Brisbane’s Hellenika takes us on an Aegean adventure with a modern spin on authentic Greek flavours. Opa!

- FIONA DONNELLY

Dreaming of nabbing a lazy Mediterranean-style breakfast by the pool next time you’re in Brisbane? How about fat slices of oozy soft-boiled egg, scattered with salty bottarga, sitting on a bed of taramasalata on toast? Or as it’s described on Hellenika’s menu – eggs with eggs with eggs. It’s just one of the signature dishes served at the Sunshine State's top Greek eatery.

More than a decade after the opening of the first Hellenika on the Gold Coast – it’s now at the Calile Hotel – Hellenika has grown into something more elaborate. But the estiatorio’s warm taverna heart still beats strongly. For owner Simon Gloftis it’s all about respecting family traditions by using the best produce he can find. “I’m able to put the food I want on our menu. It’s authentic Greek food – the food I had in my grandmother’s house. Okay, sometimes it’s tweaked a little,” he laughs.

Known for an almost forensic approach to searching the best producers, Gloftis says using the tastiest ingredients is non-negotiable, particularly when crafting clean dishes that don’t rely on forceful spices or sauces. “Produce is the whole ball game. You can’t shortcut it. You can’t half-arse it,” he says.

One reason Hellenika’s Greek salad is so memorable is because Gloftis buys the entire plum tomato harvest from Noosa Reds. The fish section of the menu, printed daily, reads like a primer on the value of establishing strong contacts with suppliers.

Gloftis, who also co-owns SK Steak & Oyster, is old-school. “Restaurants come and go but Hellenika hasn’t because I won’t allow trends to dictate my menu.”