Bordeaux vintages are typically remembered for the quality of the year’s wines or for a dramatic weather pattern during the growing season. Yet the conversation around the 2019 vintage, now being shipped, was markedly different, defined by the outbreak of COVID-19 in the early spring of 2020. While the pandemic had no effect on the wines themselves, the ensuing market volatility and economic headwinds—some of which have yet to abate—presented fresh challenges for the region, not only in getting the wines tasted by professionals, but also in bringing them to market. The 2019 vintage was the first year since 2010 for which I was unable to travel to Bordeaux and taste the wines from barrel during their en primeur period, and now global supply chain issues are causing delays in shipping.
Regardless of the powerful hype that roars to life every en primeur season, the real proof for a new vintage of Bordeaux is in the bottle later on. Over the last several months of 2021, I tasted nearly 500 finished wines from Bordeaux’s 2019 vintage via blind tastings conducted in our New York office. The results show a year whose wines are marked by extreme heat and drought, with impressive highs countered by less successful efforts.
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Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Ãland, an island off the coast of Swedenâand it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israelâs Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europeâs largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern RhÃŽne to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term âfoodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.