IF you have ever had the misfortune to use a bow saw to cut through tree limbs of much more than 4in (10cm) thick, you’ll know how exhausting it can be. In contrast, a chainsaw makes a job like this quick, easy and safe if it’s used correctly.
I used to own a petrol-powered chainsaw, but got rid of it because of the noise. A petrol motor gives you freedom to cut anywhere and has a great deal of power, but it’s noisy. I’ve owned a mains electric chainsaw for the past 10 years and while it has ample power for the garden jobs I tackle, it is quiet in use. An extension cable gives me enough reach to get down the garden – if the restrictions of a cable are an issue, you might want to check out the growing range of lithium-ion battery-operated chainsaws now available.
The principles
All chainsaws work on the same principle. A motor drives a chain fitted with sharp teeth around a rigid cutter bar. On top of the saw body is a screw cap covering an oil reservoir that lubricates the chain in use. There are handles at the back and on top, and a chain brake safety system just in front of the top handle to stop the chain spinning if the cutter bar kicks back in use. Triggers on the rear handle control engine running and speed.
Chainsaws must be used very carefully. You should understand what each switch and trigger does, and how the chain brake and the power switch (to turn off power on petrol engines) work. Read the owner’s manual carefully before using your saw.
Learn how to remove and refit the chain on the cutter bar – this varies from saw to saw – and how to tension the chain correctly. Chain tensioning usually involves slackening a locking nut or screw, turning another until the chain can be just lifted away from the cutter bar by 2-3mm, then tightening the locking nut. Wear gloves when dealing with the chain and cutter bar.
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