Higher Learning

Our creative director’s three-day trek in the Peruvian Andes left him breathless, exhausted . . . and enlightened. Here’s what can happen when you seek a peak

- DAVID ASHFORD

IT’S ABOUT AN HOUR since lunch on the first day and my first-ever stab at trekking hasn’t got off to the most auspicious start. I’m about 3200m above sea level in the Peruvian Andes and my ill-prepared body is being exposed to altitude for the first time. I enjoy the odd trail run and thought I was in good enough shape to tackle this three-day trek through the heart of the Inca empire. But the steep gradient is relentless and in amongst the eery stillness that surrounds our group I can actually hear the booming beat of my heart.

I’m sucking in almighty breaths and have never felt more middle-aged. To compound this feeling of inadequacy I’m suddenly overtaken by our 20 porters who are jogging (yes, jogging) past us. Having packed up the whole lunch set-up back at base, they’re now racing ahead to erect our tents and toilets and prepare dinner. Some of these guys are in their 60s; all of them are carrying colossal 20kg packs that make my paltry 5kg day-pack look kindy-like by comparison.

As an introduction to trekking, starting in the Peruvian Andes might be akin to having your first crack at surfing at Pipeline. Fortunately, I’m here with the experienced guides from Intrepid, who specialise in pushing the boundaries of the more adventurous traveller. In our party of 10 is AFL’s premier ruckman Brodie Grundy, who’s here with his partner Rachael and backing up from a successful trek to Everest base camp last year.

JUNGLE FEVER