Wardrobe Malfunctions

Apple, pear, cornet, lollipop. Quiet luxe, colour matching, zhuzhes, half-tucks. Dressing well is so complicated, it's no wonder we're upset

- Rachel Lopez

Makeover tropes used to be easy. Curls got smoothed; straight hair got wavy. Brows were tweezed out of their caterpillar stage. The magic wand came out of a mascara tube. Everyone got sent home, delighted, with a structured jacket over a flowy shirt, dark mid-rise jeans and wedge heels ("This is the real you, honey!"). For a while, Oprah Winfrey's show even did make-unders: Sartorially toning down women who had gone too far with hair treatments, make-up, loud prints and jewellery.

It's so complicated now, they don't even call it a makeover. They say glow-up.

On Instagram, @instamyodell has been breaking down the idea of stealth wealth, specifically, the neutral-toned, logo-free looks featured by the bickering billionaires on HBO's Succession. A Loro Piana shirt, we're learning, looks and feels luxe even though it carries no branding. Super-rich Swedes wear generic Fjällräven sweatshirts.