Its ancient qvevri winemaking traditions are now inspiring producers the world over. Simon Woolf selects the best of both traditional and new in the former Soviet state
JANCIS ROBINSON MW once coined the phrase ‘the new Old World’ to describe emerging wine nations in Europe and Eurasia. None fits this definition better than the republic of Georgia. Boasting one of the world’s oldest winemaking cultures, Georgia only recently modernised and resuscitated an industry brought to its knees after the break-up of the USSR.
A clutch of private companies established in the late 1990s now dominate production. Their focus tends towards squeaky-clean, modern styles from the more popular indigenous grape varieties, plus the semi-sweet bottlings so adored by Russian customers. While the grape varieties lend a touch of exoticism (Kisi, Mtsvane, Rkatsiteli and Saperavi are the most common), the wines can lack individuality.
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