FOR HIS SS19 LOUIS VUITTON SHOW, Nicolas Ghesquière commissioned set designer Es Devlin to construct a luminous, space-age tubular structure that made the cobblestone Cour Carrée feel like the inside of a spaceship.
The effect was futuristic, but also strangely unmoored from time. It was like watching a show through a dream, or avoid.
The clothes shared the same fluidity: of the present and the past at once, with ’80s throwbacks alongside high-tech fabrics, space-suit sleeves, and Memphis prints. Take the first look that Ghesquière sent out: Dominican model Ambar Cristal Zarzuela wearing a billowing blouson jacket in turquoise and tan with a pair of prim patent leather lace-up booties. It was part Mad Max heroine, part Victorian schoolgirl crossed with a Star Wars fighter pilot. It was 1900, 1980 and 2080 all at the same time, seamlessly blended into the upside-down triangle silhouette that has become Ghesquière’s signature.
“It’s about a world where imagination is endless,” he explains, sporting a navy plaid shirt, short beard, and playful grin when I meet with him months later at New York’s Milk Studios, where he’s being photographed with his friend and muse Michelle Williams for ELLE. According to Ghesquière, he references science fiction in his designs not because he sees it as an escapist fantasy, but as a “sooner present”: the aesthetics of a world that is almost already here. “I was always interested in anticipation,” he explains. “In every way – in movies and comics and different expressions that exist to look forward.”
It’s a fitting expression of what has become Ghesquière’s USP. For the past 20 years – first at Balenciaga and now at Vuitton – he has established himself as a visionary of understated, almost translucent glamour. He’s been at Vuitton for almost six years now, and he’s relaxing into the role, embracing playful imagery and pop-culture references from his youth (his Instagram is a vivacious mixture of Star Wars memorabilia, heavy-metal T-shirts and his two black labradors).
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Books: Shelf-Care
Find a little respite in this seasonâs most exciting new reads
Men's Rites
Deciding to go through a gender transition isnât easy for anyone. But the hardest person for journalist Daniel Mallory ortberg to convince was himself
Kick Start
In these uncertain times, louis vuittonâs artistic director nicolas ghesquiÚre is looking to the past to help make sense of the future
Music: Everything Is Illuminated
Phoebe Bridgers is a musician who revels in the darkness, albeit having earned her place in the spotlight
SUPER NATURE ESCAPISM WILDERNESS BREATHING INFRESH AIR BATHING IN SUNSHINE
IN THE SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY AND NEW HORIZONS, MODEL GEORGIA FOWLER HEADS FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS
THE big CLEANSE
WEâVE PURGED OUR KITCHEN CABINETS OF SUGAR AND CULLED THE CLOTHES THAT DONâT SPARK JOY, BUT WE MAY HAVE ARRIVED AT THE MOST BENEFICIAL (AND EASIEST) CLEANSE OF ALL
TALKING to strangers
SINCE THE EARLY 1900S, AN AGONY AUNT HAS BEEN A WILLING EAR. BUT AT A TIME OF DMS AND ASKME-ANYTHINGS, SEEKING ADVICE FROM SOMEONE YOU DONâT KNOW HAS BECOME RISKY BUSINESS
singled OUT
WEâVE ENTERED AN ERA OF MYRIAD RELATIONSHIP STATUSES â COUPLED, FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS, OPEN, POLYGAMOUS, THREE-DIGITALDATES-IN-BUT UNSURE-WHERE-THIS-IS-GOING. But is flying solo the last taboo?
GYPSY CREEK
INTERIOR DESIGNER LOUELLA BOÃTELGILL TAKES US INSIDE HER QUIRKY BYRON BAY HINTERLAND CREATION, WHICH OVERFLOWS WITH A BEACHY, HAPPY VIBE
DRIVE: DESIGN in motion
HOW THE HOTTEST INTERIOR TRENDS COULD DEFINE WHAT YOUR NEXT CAR LOOKS LIKE