Farm To Skyscraper
New York magazine|June 24 - July 7, 2019

Crown Shy brings uncommon finesse to Fidi.

Adam Platt
Farm To Skyscraper

SO WHAT IDENTIFIES a restaurant of high purpose and ambition in this post-gourmet era of skyrocketing costs, shrinking menus, and ever smaller, simpler (and louder) dining rooms? An esoteric, slightly puzzling name is helpful when it comes to telegraphing a certain kind of poetic gravitas, and so is the sound, as dinner proceeds, of the kitchen staff calling out to each other in the spirited Japanese style. An obsession with different varieties of fresh-baked bread seems to be a sign of a serious kitchen these days (especially if you have to pay extra for it), along with at least one signature large-format farmto-table dish (côte de boeuf, the ubiquitous chicken for two) and, of course, a preoccupation with vegetables served in all sorts of artful, seasonally appropriate forms.

この記事は New York magazine の June 24 - July 7, 2019 版に掲載されています。

7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。

この記事は New York magazine の June 24 - July 7, 2019 版に掲載されています。

7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。

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