Fresh Cuts

Chanel’s new 1.5 Camélia high jewellery collection pays glittering homage to its founder’s favourite floral emblem

- Shamilee Vellu

For Coco Chanel – that fearless fashion trailblazer who created her signature aesthetic by taking scissors to her paramour’s suit – an ordinary rose would never do. Instead, Chanel subverted expectation by claiming the camellia, which she found appealing because of its refined yet pared‑back sensibility. Scentless, thornless and almost elemental in its geometric roundness, a single monochromatic camellia proved particularly striking when adorning a simple sweater or little black dress.

While the camellia has appeared in past collections, it’s the first time it has informed an entire one. The 1.5 – 1 Camélia. 5 Allures collection presents 50 pieces of high jewellery, each exploring its floral inspiration using diamonds, pink sapphires, rubies and rose gold. Of these, 23 are transformable, which recalls the maverick spirit of Chanel’s first fine jewellery collection in 1932, where she debuted several designs that could transform and be worn in a myriad of ways.