Middle Earth…In The Far North

In an isolated archipelago bereft of trees and exposed to the harsh elements, Mavis Teo finds magic and bliss in its green isles and imaginative cuisine.

- Mavis Teo

It is probably surprising that the mythical Middle Earth can be found in a cluster of 18 islands in the windy North Atlantic Ocean. The Faroe Islands (or the Faroes, as the locals call them) are a cluster of colossal volcanic basalt rocks formed millions of years ago. The top surfaces of these undersea mountains are swathed in heather green and turf. Within their rugged peaks and jagged cliffs lie hidden lakes, small and stoic horses with windswept manes, and a hardy people.

Geographically, the islands are between Norway and Iceland. Politically, they are an autonomous protectorate of Denmark. But locals will tell you that genealogically, they are closer to the Vikings who settled there in the 9th century, while culturally, they are uniquely Faroese with their own traditions and a language that is closer to Icelandic.

To a frazzled city girl, the Faroes with its natural scenic beauty hold the promise of a refuge from urbanisation and a retreat in peaceful nature. The vast space between the sky and sea and the open land gives the place a sense of magic, and me, a sense of liberation. Not all of the land is lush grass. Much of the landscape is scarred by spurs of exposed rock; vast slabs streaked with streams that glisten like molten silver. I skip over them during my hikes like a child, imagining trolls and elves blending into the landscape during the day and emerging only when humans have retired for the night.