Tools Of The Trade

Even the best gemmologists rely on sophisticated apparatus to eliminate any chance of human error. CANDICE CHAN gets schooled at L’École on these essential equipment.

DON’T TRUST THE jeweller who claims to be able to differentiate between a genuine and synthetic gemstone with his naked eye. Even with the aid of a loupe, “it is hard to differentiate between two identical looking gemstones or determine if they are real or synthetic,” says Isabelle Delahaye, a professor at L’École, the school of jewellery arts founded by Van Cleef & Arpels. An art historian by training, she has been working closely with the Van Cleef & Arpels’ Mains d’Or (master craftsmen) for some 11 years and is particularly well-versed in gemmology. Her “Recognise the Gemstones” class that we are enrolled in is one of 20 courses offered as part of L’École’s curriculum.

According to Delahaye, even the most seasoned of gemmologists will still find a trip to the world’s most famous gemstone markets a daunting experience. Crammed with gemstones, mine-to-market industries in cities like Chanthaburi (Thailand), Bogota (Colombia), Mogok (Myanmar) and Ratnapura (Sri Lanka) are also crowded with crafty merchants, traders and salesmen who have no qualms making a quick dishonest buck.