The French Connection

With the launch of its second in-house movement, Chanel is proving its legitimacy as a serious watchmaker, without foregoing its French roots. Karishma Tulsidas gets the story from Frédéric Grangié.

- Karishma Tulsidas

 

IF WE TAKE A LOOK BACK AT THE TIMEPIECES yielded by the house of Chanel over the past 30 years, one thing stands out: each of its watch collections are different in form and function, not just from one another, but from offerings by other watchmakers as well. This uniqueness in design and mechanics stems from the maison’s irreverent identity, and its dichotomy of “playful and serious”. This motto can be seen from its ready-to-wear to haute couture, and it’s no surprise that it’s been injected into its watches as well. It’s perhaps best demonstrated by the Mademoiselle J12 watch launched earlier this year, which features a silhouette of Gabrielle Chanel telling the time with her hands. The whimsical timepiece instantly puts a smile on the face of its beholder, but belies the technical mastery needed to animate her hands.

Thirty years is not a long time in an industry that reveres tradition, but in the hands of Chanel, it’s been long enough to successfully carve its own niche and become a respected authority in timepieces that appeal to both men and women. In 1987, the French maison began its horological journey with a distinct focus on its primary demographic: women. First, there was the Première, with its feminine case resembling the bottle stopper of the iconic Chanel No 5 perfume; the J12, which will go down in history as the watch that propelled ceramic to luxury levels; and the Mademoiselle Privé timepieces, which have served as canvas for Chanel’s artistic motifs and designs dear to founder Gabrielle Chanel.