Scrub With Care

How to exfoliate without damaging your skin.

- Kari Molvar

FEW BEAUTY PRACTICES are embraced as enthusiastically as exfoliation — dermatologists have long said that a good polishing can banish dullness, clean pores and reveal fresh, glowing skin in a matter of minutes. It’s a deeply satisfying ritual. And yet, it’s easy to get carried away. Buffing too often with abrasive scrubs, sponges and facial brushes can obliterate everything — dead skin cells, yes, but also healthy oils and enzymes — leading to inflammation, redness, irritation and even “profound hyper pigmentation”, especially on darker skin tones, says Sumayah Jamal, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.

Now, skin-care experts are advocating for gentler measures. The San Francisco based skincare specialist Kristina Holey says she could do without exfoliation entirely. “I cannot say that I have ever seen a correlation to beautiful skin and exfoliation,” she attests. Instead, Holey swears by cleansing oils — which pull residue from pores without disrupting the equilibrium of skin — as a kinder method for achieving a radiant complexion.