Find The Next Burgundy

New world pinot noirs are turning the tables on red burgundy.

- Weets Goh

With global temperatures rising, Burgundy's climate might be pushed out of the ideal range for pinot noir. If this region disappears over the next half-century, from where can we buy the rarefied red? The answer, however, is not so straightforward.

Tai-Ran Niew, an Oregon-based, Singapore-raised winemaker warns that it is simplistic to think of Burgundy as a whole because the region has different styles and quality. Factor out the heritage and cultural standing, and most of Burgundy's good-to-great wines can find peers in both the old and new worlds.

As Niew points out, the mystique of Burgundy lies in the rare wines that are “not necessarily better in a linear sense, and is something one has to prepare for.” These are wines that one has to taste their way up to since their terroir-specific expression requires a wide array of comparisons. In other words, the average wine drinker probably will not be able to pick out a Romanée -Conti blind.

The next Burgundy should be able to produce pinot noir that is balanced, finessed, and elegant in the face of climate change without the burden of requiring the same stories or mystique as Burgundy.

AN IMMEDIATE CHALLENGER: OREGON

Pinot noir has become a signature variety for Oregon since its introduction in 1965. Oregon is one of the closest to Burgundy in terms of style, producing a more elegant, delicate wine. It’s common to compare top pinot noir from Oregon with Grand Cru Burgundy, but the state's winemakers are moving away from the comparison—especially since the soils and climate of the two regions are so different—to make contextual wines that are drawing attention and commanding prices.