Papua New Guinea’s Sepik River winds through unchanged villages, with new trips opening up this country within a country.
Back inside the spirit house in Kanganaman, village elder Vincent Yarme lifted his T-shirt to reveal rows of 2cm-long welts cut during one of the world’s most extreme initiation ceremonies. His crocodile hide scarifications contoured all the way up his back, over his shoulders and then down his chest to circle his nipples like a pair of eyes.
“It took 45 minutes of cutting by razor blade,” Vincent recalled. “My uncle puttree oil and white clay on my cuts to ease the pain. I felt heavy from loss of blood.” The night before the initiation, the young men had evoked the crocodile spirit by chanting. “The crocodile is a symbol of power on the Sepik. After the pain I felt ready for anything in life,” he added.
Spirits and creation myths taking animal form are commonplace along Papua New Guinea’s (PNG) Sepik River, but no animal is more totemic than the crocodile. During a week on the river I saw crocodiles depicted in the art and cultural performances (‘sing-sings’) of this far-flung northern region. Ironically, the closest I got to seeing a crocodile in the flesh was a sautéed entrée served one evening on board our expedition vessel.
この記事は Wanderlust Travel Magazine の July/August 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
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この記事は Wanderlust Travel Magazine の July/August 2018 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
Vermont, USA
The Wanderlust team relocated to New England for part of this issue, as we explored a lush state filled with outdoor escapes, historic towns... and lashings of maple syrup
Unique North America
See a side to the USA and Canada beyond the big cities and discover incredible stories and special wildlife with our pick of the trips
The call of the Rockies
From historic ski lodges to rustic backcountry cabins and a mock-Scottish castle, we pick the stays in Canada's Rocky Mountains that make the most of their setting
A new dawn for the Garifuna community
When the Garifuna people settled in Belize, they had to carry their traditions and culture with them; now a new trail is inviting visitors to explore this heritage through local communities
On the edge of history
In south-west Colorado lies the largest archaeological preserve in the USA, a series of vast cliff dwellings whose residents 'vanished' overnight. But was the answer to their disappearance in plain sight?
Tigers burning bright
As India celebrates 50 years of its Project Tiger conservation scheme, we visit the reserves of Madhya Pradesh to see how its success has impacted a tiger population that once looked in danger of disappearing
SEASON'S GREETINGS
From fiery fall foliage to art fairs and harvest festivals, opens up a wealth of across the USA and Canada autumn experiences
Waking a sleeping GIANT
A slow drive along the North Wales Way, from the English border to Anglesey, reveals not only a land of incredible local food and castles, but a region that is slowly reimagining itself
The rebirth of old JEDDAH
As efforts to restore Al-Balad, Jeddah's historical district, take hold, we get an exclusive peek at how art and culture are taking centre stage
Star-studded escapes
Wilderness, history and wildlife combine at some of Britain's most iconic stargazing sites, as more and more travellers are looking to the heavens
