North West Ireland

For the golfers who love the remote parts of Ireland, and seaside links in Giant Dunes.

- Stuart McLean

THE MANY GOLFERS WHO VISIT IRELAND ARE GENERALLY THERE TO PLAY a bunch of “bucket-list” courses, so it’s surprising to see just eight of their courses in the Golf Digest World 100. Ireland has been short-changed when you consider that Scotland has 16. But those of us who love playing golf in Ireland will be delighted by this ranking, because so many of their undiscovered gems will remain just that. 

One area of Ireland where coachloads of golfing tourists are less likely to be found is the North West, and it was to the remote west coast community of Belmullet in County Mayo that we drove from Dublin last June to begin an intensive golfing week. 

Here, close to the Atlantic Ocean, mid-summer can feel chilly, even on a sunny day, for South Africans used to warmer climes. Our main street hotel, the Talbot, was a comfortable refuge following an early evening stroll around the small town. It was a smart, trendy establishment, serving wholesome food and drink, busy on a Sunday evening.

PGA Tour golf was showing on a big screen in the pub. We may have been in the back of beyond, but there was no sense of isolation in our surroundings.

One of the charming features of golf in North West Ireland is the remoteness of many of its links. In the main they are in quiet, scenic locations, usually on back roads, and that’s part of the fun of playing them. The courses huddle against the prevailing winds on wild lonely coastlines, or beautiful bays, away from most human habitation. The Carne links at Belmullet is no exception, although we were surprised by how many holiday cottages were on the peninsula. And there was a fair-sized supermarket nearby.