Aberdeenshire By Train

Jeremy Ellwood takes to the rails to explore this far-flung county, which is rich in both history and memorable golf courses

A golf trip by train and taxi, rather than plane and hire car, had been on my radar for some time. All looked to be progressing smoothly in February 2020 when plans were finally firmed up during a Golf Aberdeenshire media event.

There are 55 courses in the county, from classic and modern links to fine parkland, heathland and riverside layouts and beautiful nine-holers. That April, I would travel up via the direct LNER Azuma (Japanese for ‘east’) service from King’s Cross to Stonehaven, before relying mostly on taxis to get around, with the occasional additional train journey.

Sadly, everyone’s plans for April 2020 were thrown into disarray, and after two more false starts, it A wasn’t until August 2021 that I finally found myself crossing the Forth rail bridge for just the second time. Stonehaven was now just an hour away after a relaxing journey up from King’s Cross savouring the delights of Holy Island, Alnwick and Goswick Links through the window as we approached the border, and even seals basking on the rocks near Burntisland as we hugged the Firth.

Earlier, my logistics concerns about crossing London by tube with clubs and suitcase in tow, or by taxi at great expense, were allayed when the helpful ticket office clerk advised me to change at East Croydon for St Pancras, and then just walk 200 yards to King’s Cross. It had all gone like clockwork and now I was about to tee off at an intriguing clifftop course I’d seen from the window on that previous train journey.