Keeping The Faith In The Mountains

A pilgrimage up Mount Girnar is silent though not solitary, finds Hashim Badani

- Hashim Badani

Seven thousand steps to go. It’s 2am, and I’m about to ascend Mount Girnar in Gujarat, cutting through the rocky and shrub-laden landscape of Gir Forest—home to the endangered Asiatic lion.

I’ve chosen to begin my journey at this odd hour to avoid the unforgiving heat of a long summer day. Historically, people have mostly climbed in an attempt to conquer. But this is no worldly journey; it is the kind of climb where you attempt to turn the gaze inward.

Among the five Jain temples 7,000 steps up is that of Neminath, the 22nd of Jainism’s 24 Tirthankaras (spiritual teachers). This is where he is believed to have gained higher consciousness, making this climb a rite of passage for monks of this small but impactful religious following. They are my quiet companions on this path.