Magnificent Mansions Of Chettinad

When one thinks of palaces and palatial homes in India, places like Rajasthan, Delhi, Mysore and Hyderabad come to mind. But tucked away in a corner of Tamil Nadu are some of the most stunning palaces you can see—ones that deserve more attention and better recognition.

- Ambika Vishwanath

I sat in the large overstuffed sofa listening to Mr Chandramouli talk about his illustrious ancestors and the unfortunate downfall of India’s most illustrious communities. His story was fascinating, albeit a little sad, but sitting in the cavernous reception hall complete with flowing arches, towering pillars and ornate carvings, it was difficult to not be distracted by the grandeur of it all. We were sitting in the front section of his house, which really should be called a palace. With 126 rooms, it was a mansion, but as he modestly pointed out, rather small compared to some of the others in the village. The front section, which was once used to entertain official visitors, was now partly a dining area for guests who were staying at his house, and partly a living space to relax and take in all the magnificence around.

“Why don’t we talk about the house first,” said Mr Chandramouli with a smile, who caught my attention wandering. I laughed, and while I did want to hear about the famous Chettiar community, once bankers and moneylenders to half of South and Southeast Asia, it was difficult not to be distracted by this massive place Mr Chandramouli humbly called home. Most Chettiar homes were built on a grand scale at a time when the community was at its zenith to project wealth and power. All the homes had three or four inner courtyards, each with a distinct function, dozens of rooms, and in most cases, spanned an entire block. Truth be told, I was a little dumbstruck.