On The Road To Royalty

In the lap of the Aravalli Hills in Gujarat, lies the untouched town of Santrampur, which is riddled with ancient palaces and striking temple ruins.

- Harsh Patel

IF YEARS OF road-tripping through Gujarat and Rajasthan have given me anything, it is an undying urge to explore their royal heritage in the form of their palaces and forts. Most of them have been converted into hotels, which gives one the added chance to experience the royalty of a bygone era. So when I chance upon Shri Joraver Vilas in Santrampur, I am surprised that such a beautiful property is so little heard of. I set out on a rainy morning in early September from my hometown, Ahmedabad, in search of this hidden paradise, nestled amid the lush lower reaches of the Aravallis.

As the commercial hubs of Ahmedabad recede in my rearview mirror, a landscape of verdant fields beneath a cloudy sky replaces it. Shri Joraver Vilas is three hours by road from Ahmedabad. First comes the lake, and then the tall gates and walls of this Art Deco palace. Far from the chaotic humdrum of our hectic urban lives, it feels like an oasis of tranquillity.

A cool, refreshing hibiscus sherbet greets me upon arrival. While waiting in their blue-walled drawing-room, I gaze at the photo frames of eras long gone, taking in the history of this erstwhile kingdom.

Rana Sant, the first ruler of Santrampur, and his brother Limdev carved out the kingdom of Santrampur in 1255. All of its rulers were from the Parmar clan of Rajputs, claiming a lineage to the legendary Emperor Vikramaditya of Ujjain. Shri Joraver Vilas itself was built in 1926 by Saheb Shri Joraver Singhji, who wanted a quiet getaway from the frenzy of his court. Compared to the cavernous official residence of the ruler, it was a more personal and modern place—at least by early 20th-century standards.