Stitch Stories

The bus has left Bhuj and passed a board announcing the Tropic of Cancer. The sun is strong but the temperature outside is low and pleasant—it’s the tail end of winter after all. After a 15-minute drive, we pass a sign that says ‘Shrujan LLDC’ (that’s short for Living and Learning Design Centre).

- Anuradha Sengupta

This rust-coloured complex houses what is perhaps India’s biggest crafts museum, showcasing the embroidery work of 12 communities of Kutch. The museum has a gallery, a library and three craft studios. The gallery displays change from time to time, highlighting a variety of crafts, from textiles to pottery, metal, wood and stone.

Research and design students from colleges and schools, or anyone keen on embroidery, can sign up for a workshop here. A crafts school is also planned in the near future. It will have fully equipped working studios for all the crafts of Kutch.

The region may be known for the White Rann, droughts and the tragic earthquake of 2001, but—with a range of diverse but syncretic communities—it is also one of the biggest hubs of crafts and textiles in the country.

Walk into the dimly lit (so that the textiles on display are not damaged by light) museum and you will see a jaw-dropping and humbling line-up of exquisite craft work that is unlike anything you may have seen before. The museum displays a series of exhibits along with embroidered panels that are close-ups of the style, designs, motifs, etc. of each community in the region.

Their craft is more than just decoration for household goods; it is an important means of personal, social and spiritual expression. The various embroidery styles are unique to each community. There is the dense and bold work by the Ahir community, animated with floral motifs, mirrors, peacocks and parrots; the Jat-Garaasiya and Jat-Fakiraani of the Jats; the Sodha-Pakko of the Sodhas; the Soof and Khaarek of the MeghwadMaarus; and the Rabaari of the Rabaaris.