Appleby-in-Westmorland

This medieval town set in beautiful countryside is a less touristy alternative to the nearby Lake District

- SALLY COFFEY

Sitting on a loop of the River Eden in the picturesque Eden Valley, the quiet market town of Appleby-in-Westmorland feels a long way from the tourist hubs of Ullswater and Ambleside, yet the fell mountains and glacial lakes of England’s much-loved national park, the Lake District, are a mere 15 miles away to the west. Still, for those not venturing that far, the Eden Valley, a patchwork of green fields and pretty sandstone towns and villages, has plenty to keep you busy for a few days or more.

To the east of Appleby lie the Pennines, the mountains and hills that separate England’s northwest from Yorkshire and the northeast, but before you head off hiking, allow yourself time to get to know Appleby itself.

The town’s name comes from its Danish settlers, who arrived in 920, and means simply ‘apple-place’. Its strategic location between Scotland and England means the town was a disputed land for centuries.

Following the Norman Conquest of the 11th century, work began on a motte and bailey castle and the town was granted its first Royal Charter by King Henry II in 1176.

Appleby Castle, which still stands (despite repeated raids on the town by the Scottish), is on the brow of the south end of the broad main street of Boroughgate. It has one of the last intact Norman keeps in Britain, and is open for tours and afternoon tea.