SUN, SEA, AND SOIL

On a tasting tour through Greece’s serene Cyclades islands, SARAH SOULI meets the innovative natural-wine makers operating under the philosophy that less really can be more.

- SARAH SOULI

JENNY PRINEA, the manager of my rental villa on the Greek island of Tínos, pointed to Exomvourgo, the rust-coloured rock monolith looming above us. “Last night, there was a full moon,” she said. “A couple of friends and I climbed to the top to celebrate with a bottle of wine.” She added this so naturally that I figured it was a monthly occurrence. I was instantly charmed—and kicked myself for not coordinating my travel with the lunar cycle.

There was no full moon in sight that night, but I could at least drink wine. Much like bread and olive oil, wine is an integral part of the Hellenic diet. The ancient Greeks believed it was invented by Dionysus, the god of revelry. In the Byzantine and Ottoman empires, Greek wine was considered a delicacy. Since the mid 20th century, though, it has been held in relatively low esteem in Europe; EU regulations clamped down on distribution, and most non-Greeks have only ever sampled retsina, a sickly-sweet taverna wine that is reminiscent of Manischewitz. It’s an unfortunate reputation, and one that couldn’t be further from the truth.