The big appeal of a small Karoo dorp

Van Wyksdorp in the Karoo may not be near to anything, yet exploring its surrounding mountain passes and staying there is a journey very much worth taking.

- Brian Berkman

UNESCO recognised the Swartberg Pass between Oudtshoorn and Prince Albert for its heritage value. It is the last pass that Thomas Bain designed and built.

With its many and steep switchbacks, this gravel road pass requires careful driving and attention. And, if you plan to explore Die Hel, also a 4x4.

By prior arrangement, a downhill adventure awaits for groups who would like to cycle down a 12km section facilitated by Swartberg Experiences (visit swartbergexperience.co.za).

As Farmer's Weekly's Garden Route and Klein Karoo Avitourism visit was made possible by BirdLife South Africa (which hosts the GoBirding.co.za platform with support from the Western Cape Department of Tourism and the Gouritz Cluster Biosphere Reserve), we were always on the lookout for birds.

Explore the peak (Die Top) in search of Verreaux's eagle, Cape eagle-owl, Ground woodpecker, Cape siskin, Cape sugarbird, Victorin's warbler, sentinel rock thrush, Cape rockjumper, protea seedeater and the orangebreasted sunbird, and keep an ear out for their calls while cycling down.

If telling friends you went careening from the Waboomsberg on the Swartberg Pass on a bicycle doesn't get you sufficient bragging rights, telling them you had breakfast above the clouds cooked over open coals by Kobus and Charman Lategan and their team from Kobus se Gat certainly will.

Perhaps it was the crisp early morning air or the staggeringly vertiginous views below but, whatever the reasons, that breakfast of pillowy roosterkoek, still warm and smoky from the coals and packed with bacon, scrambled eggs and a sweet and spicy tomato smoor tasted Michelin-star worthy.

Drinking moerkoffie from an enamel cup while doing so was equally stellar.

CALITZDORP

After a delightful lunch under a canopy of grapevines at De Krans in Calitzdorp, the next stop reached via the Rooiberg Pass was a tiny Karoo village.