Songs From The Desert

The musical tradition of the Marwar region encompassing Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Barmer is embodied in the Manganiyars. For this clan of hereditary folk musicians, music is more than a means of livelihood. The Manganiyar community reflects the roots of Indian classical music.

- Supriya Newar

It is past 2.00 am and the goats have finally stopped bleating. As a bunch of us sit on charpais under a starry sky in a tiny village called Hameera, 25 km off Jaisalmer, Sakar Khanji asks a young lad to fetch his 250-year-old kamaicha (percussion).

Over the next hour and more, we are treated to an unforgettable rendering of this ancient string instrument by its seniormost living maestro who also happens to be a Padma Shri awardee! He starts with one or two popular songs and then cajoles his kamaicha to imitate the soundscape of a train swiftly passing through the desert followed by the train’s slowing down and its eventual halt. There is no other accompaniment of voice or percussion to his rendition and yet such is his artistry that the stillness of the night is enveloped by the apparent whistle of a halted train. At a time when most of the village folk were yet to see a train, let alone ride one, they would get together to experience its arrival via Sakarji’s kamaicha!

My being left spellbound is hardly surprising. Sakarji hails from the Manganiyar community; a community that has wowed audiences all over the world with their live wire, spontaneous performances that are deeply rooted in ancient folklore and narrate the stories of Rajasthan in an inimitable, colourful manner.

Having known the most celebrated of them personally, visiting their homes and villages and understanding their music and art for over two decades, I am certain of the fact that there is much more to the Manganiyars than meets the eye.

A peek into the patronage