In mid-nineteenth-century London, which had a population upward of two million people, the journalist and social researcher Henry Mayhew set out to survey the lives of the working and nonworking poor. One of the now obsolete categories of labor he investigated was that of the catsâ-meat men: sellers of boiled horseflesh, who purchased their stinking wares from knackersâ yards, then wheeled it in barrows along appointed routes each day, selling it to the public as cat food at two and a half pence per pound. By Mayhewâs reckoning, there were a thousand such venders in the capital, serving the needs of a feline population of three hundred thousand: roughly one cat per dwelling house. Cats had a liminal status, perceived by the humans they lived alongside as being somewhere between regulators of verminâthey helped control the population of rats and mice that flourished among the goods brought in and out of Londonâs teeming docksâand vermin themselves. Weasel-Âfaced and rat-tailed, given to screeching and swiping, the mid-Âcentury cat was a rogue scavenger and a fit target for the cruelty of children, thanks to its own well-known predisposition to cruelty.
At the same time, however, a new cat was beginning to emerge. This was a round-faced, wide-eyed, sleek-Âbodied creature that was pampered, primped, and lavished with affectionâlike Oliver, a plump, stately, black domestic cat who was a member of a suburban household in the late nineteenth century and who, preserved in taxidermied condition with a yellow ribbon tied in a bow around his neck, is now in the collection of the Museum of London. Consider, too, the proliferating creatures drawn by Louis Wain, an artist born in Clerkenwell in 1860, whose anthropomorphized felines, engaged in activities such as playing cricket or singing in choirs, came to populate the pages of the Illustrated London News no less densely than their feral cousins prowled the warehouses along the Thames.
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Sniff Test - A maverick perfumer tries to make his mark on a storied fashion house.
What does conspicuous consumption smell like? On a December afternoon in 2013, the Parisian perfumer Francis Kurkdjian was scheduled to meet with the renowned French crystal manufacturer Baccarat at the companyâs chandelier-crammed headquarters, near the Arc de Triomphe. The C.E.O. at the time, Daniela Riccardi, had commissioned Kurkdjian to create a limited-edition fragrance to mark the companyâs two-hundred-andfiftieth anniversary. Baccarat planned to produce two hundred and f ifty diamond-cut crystal flacons of the new perfume, priced at three thousand euros each, and wanted the scent to reflect the quality and opulence of its vessel.
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