Labour of Love

There's more to a fashion brand than the designer at its helm. From the karigars who embroider in the ateliers, the artisans who continue to weave heritage fabrics on the loom, and the factory workers who piece together clothes and accessories by hand, fashion's supply chain is complex and, very often, unfair to all but those at the top. However, not all is gloom and doom. We've talked to five designers who are empowering their workers with fair working conditions, remuneration, and, more importantly, respect.

- Ashwini Arun Kumar

Anita Dongre

CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER - HOUSE OF ANITA DONGRE

In 1995, designer Anita Dongre and her sister Meena Sehra started a womenswear label with just two sewing machines in their bedroom balcony. That label went on to become The House of Anita Dongre fashion conglomerate, a Mecca for modern Indian women who look to the brand for their wardrobe needs – from bridal wear to everyday clothing. Anita has been quick to establish herself as one of the most successful female designers in the country, and it’s a position she doesn’t take lightly.

She has used it to empower women artisans from lower socio-economic groups via her association with SEWA (Self-Employed Women’s Association). “Nine years ago, we travelled to the heart of Gujarat to meet the women of SEWA and returned having offered the commitment to give them work without displacing them, and to preserve their craft,” shares Anita, whose shared passion for economic self-reliance propelled this collaboration. An association with the brand has helped these women achieve financial independence and given them an opportunity to showcase their karigari to the world via Anita Dongre creations that have both global appeal and a worldwide audience.

Anita believes that this has resulted in an increased respect for the women in their households, better educational opportunities for their children, and an overall improvement in the quality of life of their families. “As designers, we have a responsibility to modernise and integrate our crafts and ensure their continued existence,” believes Anita, urging more designers to use their platform to empower artisans. With regard to her own association with SEWA, she is looking forward to sending more work their way.''