A Link in TIME

Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse watch icon ups the ante with a reinvented chain bracelet.

- TAN SIOK HOON

Among the 2024 novelties of Patek Philippe, the new Ref. 5738/1R-001 from the Golden Ellipse collection instantly catches one's eye. It is a significant creation for many reasons, but before elaborating on them, a rehash of the Golden Ellipse's backstory sets the scene for its renewed appreciation.

Launched in 1968 with a yellow gold case and a blue gold dial, the now-iconic Golden Ellipse wristwatch has undergone an evolution with different hues of gold and dial iterations. Up until the early 1980s, the Golden Ellipse collection presented both leather straps and chain bracelets, such as the milanais-style bracelet of Ref. 3548 (1968) or the polonais-style bracelet of Ref. 3605 (1974).

These bracelets added a great measure of creativity to the flagship watch of the 1970s that emanated both audacity and balance.

In 2008, the Golden Ellipse unveiled a large platinum model (34.5 x 39.5 mm) with a blue sunburst dial (Ref. 5738P-001) for its 40th anniversary, followed by a large rose gold model with an ebony-black sunburst dial (Ref. 5738R- 001) in 2018.