Let's begin with the new Carrera and the different versions appearing this year. Why the different versions, and what's the historical angle?
Well, I'm not in product development so I can't comment but when I briefed the (development) team I took them through the historical models...the first Carrera from 1963; the first big date complication in 1965, the reverse panda in 1968; and we have the automatic chronograph in 1969. Of course, we have the solid gold pieces worn by the (racing) drivers, and you can see that we took various codes from these different collections to draw them down into the (2023 editions). You can see that there's a very clear through line from the original 2447 NST to the new 39mm Carrera that we've launched at Watches and Wonders Geneva.
Right, and the date windows? I cannot recall a model in the archive with the date at noon...
On the blue model, obviously it's the more contemporary watch so we've traditionally had the date window at 6 o'clock (and it thus remains) here to maintain the symmetry. (On the black model) the date window is placed at 12 o'clock to give it a much cleaner look. So, yeah, there is a historical reference...we introduced the Carrera reference 3147 in 1965 with the date window at 12 o'clock, but then the following year, we switched the date window to 9 o'clock because people said that the chronograph hand blocked the date window. This is probably true, but the thing is here (in the new 39mm Carrera), it's not that big an issue because it's only when you look at it flat on (that the hands might get in the way) and even then, you can see the date. Anyway, the chronograph (calibre TH20-00) has a vertical clutch so...
One could just leave it running and thus not block the date at all?
That's right!
Turning to the nickname everyone has for both new 39mm Carreras, what do you think of it?
この記事は WOW Singapore の Issue 69 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です ? サインイン
この記事は WOW Singapore の Issue 69 版に掲載されています。
7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアム ストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。
すでに購読者です? サインイン
BUOYANT HEAVYWEIGHTS
The ubiquitous use of titanium and carbon fibre does not satisfy a growing number of watch lovers; the indisputable rise of quiet design vexes them. The recent release of hefty and heavy timepieces, especially in the dive watch segment, proves that some just like it big
YEN FOR PRECISION
While we typically think of watchmaking as a Swiss matter, this ignores the powerful contributions of Japanese industry and know-how. We begin this deep dive with a look at the biggest names in the game
LEGENDARY DEPTHS
From pioneering chronographs to revolutionizing dive watches, Longines has always been at the forefront of horological advancements. Explore how the Swiss brand's journey through water-resistance shaped the future of dive watches-and made a splash in the process
LEAPING AHEAD
IWC updates the perpetual calendars in its Portugieser range with four new models
HOLDING THE HIGH GROUND
Chanel's 2024 collection represents a rare moment where haute couture and haute horlogerie coexist perfectly
SARTORIAL TIMING
Parmigiani Fleurier encourages us to take a second, and perhaps third, look at the new Toric collection of watches
LEFT HAND DRIVE
The DOXA SUB 300T Aristera is a tribute to the brand's heritage in dive watches, combining the original design with a left-handed twist for 2024, offering the standout features that made DOXA renowned while breaking new ground in functionality
LIVING HISTORY
A. Lange & Söhne has spent the better part of this year celebrating the 25th anniversary of the seminal Datograph. With the Datograph Handwerkskunst, the watch is elevated to the highest level
THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION
Since its inception, Rolex has never wavered in its pledge to create the world's finest watches for anyone, anywhere
SWEET SPOT
The Longines Legend Diver is just the right amount of watch for a contemporary sports model that could also pull dress watch duties
