In the pages of magazines like this one and across the spread of worldwide webpages of horological content, you will often find traditional mechanical timekeepers described as complicated. Social media compounds this, with one-liners calling watches âcomplex,â or âcomplicated,â or full of âcomplications,â with no further explanation. In fact, some watches are not only complex in terms of number of components â from the case and movement to the dial and bracelet â but also come with a number of complications. Funnily enough, this is just the traditional watchmaking worldâs way of saying that a watch has functions other than tracking the hours, minutes and seconds. In other words, the smart watch is the worldâs most complicated timekeeper. Indeed, it has so many non-horological functions that it is truly a wearable computer rather than a watch. One might say the word âsmart,â in a smart watch tells us what it is. This begs the question: what is a complicated watch?
Returning to the mechanical wristwatch, when a pundit somewhere says a watch is complicated, he or she is not saying it was difficult to design and build, or even to understand. Indeed, the word âcomplicated,â is a loose colloquial term in watchmaking â a more specific word is âcomplication.â As noted, a watch with complications is one with functions beyond regular timekeeping but still related to tracking time in some way. Yes, the date and a second time zone count, but a tourbillon and remontoir do not, although these do add complexity to any given watch. Both are counted as technical complications, as are extended power reserves and ultra-thin architectures.
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BUOYANT HEAVYWEIGHTS
The ubiquitous use of titanium and carbon fibre does not satisfy a growing number of watch lovers; the indisputable rise of quiet design vexes them. The recent release of hefty and heavy timepieces, especially in the dive watch segment, proves that some just like it big
YEN FOR PRECISION
While we typically think of watchmaking as a Swiss matter, this ignores the powerful contributions of Japanese industry and know-how. We begin this deep dive with a look at the biggest names in the game
LEGENDARY DEPTHS
From pioneering chronographs to revolutionizing dive watches, Longines has always been at the forefront of horological advancements. Explore how the Swiss brand's journey through water-resistance shaped the future of dive watches-and made a splash in the process
LEAPING AHEAD
IWC updates the perpetual calendars in its Portugieser range with four new models
HOLDING THE HIGH GROUND
Chanel's 2024 collection represents a rare moment where haute couture and haute horlogerie coexist perfectly
SARTORIAL TIMING
Parmigiani Fleurier encourages us to take a second, and perhaps third, look at the new Toric collection of watches
LEFT HAND DRIVE
The DOXA SUB 300T Aristera is a tribute to the brand's heritage in dive watches, combining the original design with a left-handed twist for 2024, offering the standout features that made DOXA renowned while breaking new ground in functionality
LIVING HISTORY
A. Lange & Söhne has spent the better part of this year celebrating the 25th anniversary of the seminal Datograph. With the Datograph Handwerkskunst, the watch is elevated to the highest level
THE PURSUIT OF PERFECTION
Since its inception, Rolex has never wavered in its pledge to create the world's finest watches for anyone, anywhere
SWEET SPOT
The Longines Legend Diver is just the right amount of watch for a contemporary sports model that could also pull dress watch duties