When we get rain, there's too much; when we get sun, there's too much,' says Guillaume Sorrel (Domaine Marc Sorrel) of the current weather patterns in the Rhône: something that many winemakers would recognise in 2023.
It was a season of extremes, but most managed to wrestle good results from the chaos.
On paper, it was another very hot, dry year - it didn't break records like 2022 did, but it wasn't far off.
The year started out exceptionally dry, but thankfully rain came from mid-May onwards. The water was welcome - crucial, in fact - but it brought with it downy mildew and black rot in the jungle of foliage that burst forth, particularly in the northern Rhône.
A fierce heatwave in late August left an indelible stamp on the vintage. As in 2022, there were some blockages in ripening, but they weren't as significant in 2023. The impact was concentrated grapes, reduced acidity and more potent levels of alcohol.
White wines were a success story throughout the Rhône in 2023. They have intensity, freshness and energy, and are more appetising than the 2022s, which are often heavy in comparison.
Most of the past eight vintages need significant time in bottle to show their best. The 2023s, however, are immediately drinkable and enjoyable.
So it will be a useful vintage in that respect, tiding us over until the others are ready to drink.
Southern Rhône
The story of a vintage really begins once the last of the previous year's grapes have been harvested.
The last quarter of 2022 was very wet, with rain replenishing water reserves ahead of what turned out to be another parched growing season to follow.
January to March 2023 was exceptionally dry, which is unusual for this time of year. 'We don't have climate change here - we have a deregulated climate,' says Vincent Avril of Clos des Papes in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When it rains, it all comes at once, and heatwaves are now common.
この記事は Decanter の February 2025 版に掲載されています。
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この記事は Decanter の February 2025 版に掲載されています。
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