Capturing the Magic of La Mancha

Manchego is undeniably Spain's most famous cheese. Rivaling Dutch Gouda and Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano as a premier international culinary ambassador, Manchego accounts for more than a third of all the cheese produced in Spain.

- DAVID GIBBONS

Unsurprisingly, at cheese counters across the United States, the phrase, "I'd like a piece of Manchego" has become the equivalent of, "I'll have a glass of Chardonnay," which is to say there are a lot of commercialized, generic examples out there.

The challenge is to find the elite cheeses among the many Manchegos on the market. You can start by seeking out Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheeses, the raw-milk versions of which are labeled "artisan." During the COVID-19 pandemic, their stateside numbers have dwindled somewhat due to supply chain interruptions, not to mention a decline in the number of young people taking up traditional shepherding-sadly, a more serious, long-term dilemma.

Manchego's raw material, sheep's milk, can boast double the fat and 50% more protein than cow's milk, promising a richer cheese with greater potential for flavor development.

The finest Manchegos have a solid backbone of creamy, mildly sheepy butterfats and an inherent caramellike sweetness. Toothsome, complex and balanced, they feature herbal, grassy, fruity, nutty, toasty and meaty aromas and loads of umami-think almonds, Brazil nuts, roasted lamb and buttered popcorn. With age, they develop more earthy, savory, funky flavors. Bittersweet and peppery or piquant notes, aka bite or sharpness, can also emerge over time.