TASTING REPORT CALIFORNIA RHÔNES

Paso Robles and Santa Barbara take center stage on the Central Coast

- TIM FISH

California's Rhône-style wines thrive throughout the state, whether it's hearty reds made from Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre or floral whites from Viognier and Grenache Blanc. This diversity of locales and grape varieties is what keeps the wines interesting and keeps consumers and winemakers coming back for more. That said, specific regions stand out in different vintages, and the 2019 harvest belongs to California's Central Coast, particularly Paso Robles and Santa Barbara.

That's my takeaway after reviewing more than 200 Rhône-style reds in blind tastings at our Napa office since my previous report ("Open Range," May 31, 2021), in addition to nearly 75 Rhône-style whites reviewed by me or senior editor MaryAnn Worobiec. For Paso Robles and Santa Barbara, I give the 2019 reds a classic rating of 95 points on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale, while Napa and Sonoma receive an overall rating of 92 points. These scores are nearly identical to the final ratings I gave the 2018 wines, with the Central Coast regions faring just slightly better in 2019.

Justin Smith of Saxum rises to the top for this report with a knockout lineup of Rhône-style releases. Leading the pack are the James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2019 (98 points, $98), a Grenache-based blend that’s a real powerhouse, deeply structured and a bit decadent but not weighty, and the Broken Stones Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2019 (97, $98), a spirited Syrah-based blend that offers supple blackberry, smoky meat and stony mineral flavors.