With its rapid rise in popularity over the past decade, rosé occupies the contradictory position of being embraced as the luxury pour of summer, while not being taken seriously as wine. The deluge of lackluster bottles turned out to meet consumers' feverish demand has not helped its reputation.
"Rosé has become like Beaujolais Nouveau years ago-producers rush it to market quickly and everyone focuses on simple aromatics instead of substance," says winemaker Daniel Ravier of Domaine Tempier in Provence's elite Bandol appellation. "Many people still think rosé is not a real wine."
Yet across rosé's spiritual homeland of Provence, ambitious vintners such as Ravier craft wines that challenge this perception. They are making complex, distinctive versions that channel their terroirs and make the case for rosé as something more than poolside refreshment. Harnessing their region's old vines and relying on a mélange of grapes both well-known and obscure, these specialists are using artisan winemaking techniques to illuminate a range of styles.
In the Mediterranean climate of southeastern France, many of these vintners were honing their craft long before the recent vogue for pink wine. This experience was crucial in a challenging growing season such as 2021-plagued by spring frost, drought, summer fires, and uneven ripening when the top estates set themselves apart.
WHAT MAKES A GREAT ROSÉ
Any red grape can be vinified into rosé. But the best Provençal versions, like any great wines, showcase a sense of place, while offering balance, length, and vibrancy. This level of achievement requires unusual expertise to craft.
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Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Ãland, an island off the coast of Swedenâand it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israelâs Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europeâs largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern RhÃŽne to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term âfoodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.