NGOYE LODGE & NGUNI COTTAGE, KZN NORTH COAST
Mtunzini, isiZulu for 'place of shade', is a little patch of paradise some 140km up the coast from Durban. It has everything a nature bunny could wish for: mangrove swamps, estuaries, tall dunes, long stretches of sandy beach, and pristine forests with superb birdlife (more than 600 species) and other animals. Semi-wild zebras roam the streets and are occasionally chased from the Spar. They're also found on the fairways at the country club, where there's a tricky nine-hole course and a restaurant with great views.
The village is up alongside Umlalazi Nature Reserve, where the Mlalazi River spills into the ocean. There's a timber boardwalk that takes you through the swamp forest to a grove of protected raffia palms - humongous, huge-fronded trees whose fruit is eaten by a colony of rare palm-nut vultures. A few barges and houseboats go up and down the river - stray crocodiles and hippos have been spotted, and even the odd shark accidentally heading upstream.
Between visits to the lagoon, the forest or the beach, Ngoye is a charming little guest house in which to catch your breath or laze in docile splendour by the pool, in the garden, on the veranda or in the lounge. It has a down-to-earth homegrown style quaint and unfettered, nothing cookie-cutter nor too slick.
Instead, it's comfortable, colourful and stocked with everything you really need to relax. The main house has five en suite bedrooms and a lovely open living area, while Nguni is completely private, with its own living room and garden - ideal if you and your beloved want total privacy.
COST: From R1 400 per couple per night BOOK: ngoyelodge.co.za
BUFF AND FELLOW, GARDEN ROUTE
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