Say Cheese

There's a movement in New Jersey that's not just for turophiles

- STEVE SEARS

Call it a “movement” if you wish, but it is truly an art, a way of life, and maybe will find its way to your own table.

The creation of artisanal cheese here in the Garden State — the way the cows, goats and sheep who produce give back to the earth, and how that healthy cheese is created and finds its way to your lunch or dinner table, or even as a party pass-around — is a nifty thing.

“Our farm by international standards is considered a small farm,” Nina White said of her and husband Jonathan’s 187-acre Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse (www.cowsoutside.com) in Milford, now in its third decade. “And with that, in regions that are densely populated, there are a lot of these small properties that can really serve to improve the environment and host wildlife while producing very highquality food for the surrounding community. It is a triple win.”

Tish Streeten is Cherry Grove Farm’s education, events, and community outreach manager. The Lawrenceville farm is 400 acres, and just 3 miles from the center of Princeton in Mercer County. “People visit the farm, whether it is a group of high school, middle school or any grades of school kids, Girl Scouts or corporations doing an outing. They can either visit the farm and just do a tour, or maybe they can make some cheese or see a cheesemaking demonstration,” Streeten said.

They also will learn some valuable history. Oliver Hamill is the owner and steward of the land. The Hamill family has owned the Cherry Grove Farm (www.cherrygrovefarm. com) property and leased it to other farmers since 1902. Hamill took over the farm in 2002, initially raising beef cattle, hens, pigs, and sheep. Dairy cattle were added three years later, and artisanal cheesemaking commenced.