A Bistro With Shish Barak

New York magazine|April 22 – May 05, 2024

Huda impressively balances its many influences.

- MATTHEW SCHNEIER

The region we now call the Levant from the French for "rising," like the sun, a nod to its placement on the eastern edge of the Mediterranean-stretches across Israel, Palestine, and Lebanon, through Syria and Jordan. It is a place of civilization's beginning, part of the so-called Fertile Crescent, home to some of mankind's earliest agricultural experiments as well as the site of current and intractable conflict.

It's heartening, at a disheartening moment, to visit Huda, a "new Levantine bistro" in Williamsburg. Its owner, Gehad Hadidi-who in 2019 bought midtown's La Bonne Soupe, a more traditional bistro with Burgundy snails, niçoise salad, and moules frites-is of Palestinian and Syrian ancestry with a Jordanian passport; its chef, Omneyah Hassan, who previously cooked at Celestine and Pasquale Jones, is of Egyptian descent.

この記事は New York magazine の April 22 – May 05, 2024 版に掲載されています。

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この記事は New York magazine の April 22 – May 05, 2024 版に掲載されています。

7 日間の Magzter GOLD 無料トライアルを開始して、何千もの厳選されたプレミアムストーリー、9,000 以上の雑誌や新聞にアクセスしてください。

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