A Nouveau Newburg

Museum food gets an update at the New-York Historical Society.

- CHRIS CROWLEY

WHEN DIEGO MOYA was 14 and working at a deli on Long Island, he was tasked with making the Waldorf salad: apples, grapes, walnuts, mayo—classic. He has since gone on to a cooking career that included stops at L’Arpège in Paris and Casa Mono before he became the chef and culinary director for the Oberon Group, filling the menus at the company’s small brownstone-Brooklyn wine bars (June, Rucola, etc.) with graceful, naturalistic dishes like heirloom melons in chilled lemon-balm gelée. Lately, however, he has been thinking about Waldorfs again.