Artisanal Ancestry

Jewellery design is a form of art that transcends time and space. Tatler spoke with Alisa Moussaieff, a doyenne of the jewellery industry, and Dennis Chan of Qeelin about the impact of culture on jewellery design today

- Amrita Katara

When memory, history and cultural motifs collide, art is born. Jewellery design is an art form that not only reflects the traditions, beliefs and values of a society, but is also an expression of cultural identity, personal style and social status. To understand the impact of culture on the design process, Tatler spoke to Alisa Moussaieff and Dennis Chan.

Moussaieff was founded in 1963 by Israeli jeweller Shlomo Moussaieff, whose great-grandfather had been a pearl merchant in the Middle East in the 1850s. Seeking to take his family's business further, he set up the brand's flagship high jewellery store on London's New Bond Street. The store stood out for its collection of rare gemstones, set in designs created from precious metals, that were lightweight and easy to wear. To this day, the family business remains one of the most discerning names in haute jouaillerie. Shlomo Moussaieff's wife Alisa-dubbed Mrs M, or the first lady of the jewellery world-has helmed the family business for over 50 years, guiding it to ever greater heights and more glittering clientele. For this year's Oscars, for example, Moussaieff helped Michelle Yeoh and Rihanna decide which of her exquisite jewels to wear.

Closer to home, watchmaker-turned-jewellery designer Dennis Chan has created a stir with his brand Qeelin by giving traditional Chinese motifs and cultural icons such as the wulu, an auspicious, bottle-shaped gourd, a new lease of life through design. Founded in 2004, the company gained recognition thanks to celebrity fans such as Katy Perry and Rihanna, who sported the brand's pieces during Paris Fashion Week and on a magazine cover respectively. The signature collections, especially the wulu range, became a hit with customers of all generations and cultures.