Charles de Vilmorin

The new name to watch in fashion is bringing his futuristic vision to couture and Rochas

- Cherry Mui

It's not only his resemblance to the legendary designer that has the industry calling Charles de Vilmorin "the next Yves Saint Laurent". Like that trailblazer, the fast-rising French star-who has been given an updated version of Saint Laurent's soubriquet "le petit prince de la mode"-was put at the helm of a heritage fashion house while in his early 20s, leading the creative direction of Rochas this past year.

De Vilmorin graduated from the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and launched his eponymous couture label on Instagram during the pandemic. Nobody could have foreseen the speed at which his career would take off: iconic designers Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Christian Lacroix praised his designs, which included psychedelic bomber jackets resembling the sculptures of French artist Niki de Saint Phalle. Another legend, Jean Paul Gaultier decided to sponsor him as an on-schedule guest at haute couture week in January 2021. "It was a big surprise that I received [a] letter from Jean Paul Gaultier", says de Vilmorin. "He wanted to see me on the calendar. It was, of course, a huge honour-a lot of pressure-but it was amazing." Two weeks after the show, he was appointed creative director at Rochas, aged just 24.