Spirit of the Sixties

In a celebration of the strength and versatility of contemporary femininity, Dior's autumn-winter 2024-2025 ready-to-wear collection reinterprets the legacy and pioneering spirit of Miss Dior

- Nafeesa Saini

Nine life-sized cane sculptures towered in the centre of Dior’s autumn winter 2024-2025 ready to-wear runway show at the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris, with models weaving around them. Created by Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni, as part of her Of Bodies, Armour and Cages series, these warrior-like figurative sculptures presented a paradoxical blend of protection and confinement, clothing and protecting the body while simultaneously suggesting a sense of restriction.

Kulkarni, who also designed the show’s set, drew inspiration from her 2016 film Juloos, where she portrayed a female warrior. Stills from the film, printed on canvas, were hung and displayed on the walls surrounding the runway, creating a powerful visual narrative.

The scenography’s themes of female empowerment and liberation echoed throughout Dior’s collection, which pays tribute to its groundbreaking Miss Dior ready-to-wear debut and namesake boutique launched in 1967. This pivotal moment marked the maison’s pioneering role in fashion democratisation. Until the 20th century, womenswear was largely confined to haute couture and developed slower than menswear due to the complexities of its silhouettes.

Forgoing the traditional formality of haute couture, Miss Dior embraced a more casual, expressive style that reflected the social changes of the era, including the burgeoning women’s liberation movement. Conceived by Marc Bohan, the maison’s longestserving creative director, and his trusted assistant, Philippe Guibourgé, the readyto-wear collection included short coats and shift dresses, embroidered shorts and pleated skirts .